GoingManual.com Forum Index GoingManual.com
It's time to take control!
 
 HomeHome    TurorialsTutorials    Photography ForumsPhotography Forum 
Photography Tutorial

Introduction

Part I – Gear

The Camera
 -  Focus
 -  Resolution
 -  MegaPixels Vs Print Size
 -  Sharpening

Semi auto settings
 -  Aperture Priority (Av)
 -  Shutter priority (Tv)

Zoom and Focal Length
 -  A Note About Sensor Size

Other Camera Features
 -  Viewfinders
 -  Lens Hood
 -  LCD screen
 -  White Balance

Extra Equipment
 -  Tripod
 -  Cable Release
 -  Filter systems
 -  Polarizer and ND filter
 -  External Flash
 -  Studio Lighting
 -  Reflectors

Part II – Capturing The Scene

Your First Manual Photo
 -  It's All About Exposure
 -  The Light Meter
 -  Exposure Explained
 -  Controlling Exposure

Creative Effects
 -  Aperture and Depth Of Field
 -  DOF Preview
 -  Shutter speed

Putting it all Together
 -  ISO
 -  Ap. & Shutter Relationship
 -  Stop for a minute
 -  So What?
 -  The Bulb Setting

Metering the Scene
 -  18% of Everything

Metering modes
 -  Matrix
 -  Average
 -  Center weighted
 -  Spot or semi-spot

Taking Meter Readings
 -  Expose for your subject
 -  Sunsets and sunrises
 -  Reflecting sun
 -  Night Exposures
 -  Moon
 -  Green Foliage
 -  Bright or White Scenes
 -  Dark or Black Scenes

Understanding Your Histogram
 -  Flash Metering

Composition

Lead in The Viewer Eye
 -  Point of Focus
 -  Fill the frame
 -  The Rule of Thirds
 -  Moving Subjects
 -  Print and frame Sizes

Different Styles

Learn by doing
 -  Giving and Getting Critique
 -  Portraits
 -  Groups
 -  Children
 -  Shooting Outdoors
 -  Silhouettes
 -  Macro
 -  Products
 -  Landscapes
 -  Sports and Action
 -  Panning
 -  Rear Sync Flash
 -  Abstract
 -  Long Exposures
 -  Black and White

A few Other Useful Things
 -  Blown Out Skies
 -  Neutral Density Filters
 -  Polarizing Filters
 -  Electronic noise

You're Half Way There!

Part III The Digital darkroom

 -  Computer hardware
 -  Card Reader
 -  Printers
 -  Mouse

Post Processing
 -  The Ethics of Altering
 -  Choosing Your Program

 -  Tutorials
 

Photoshop Tutorials
 Photoshop Primer
 Saving Your Image
 Adding a Border
 Using Levels
 Using Curves
 The S-Curve
 Correcting White Balance
 Improving Saturation
 The Clone Tool
 Correcting Lens Distortion
 Blending Multiple Images
 Black and White Conversion
 Sepia Conversion
 Reducing Noise
 Cropping for Different Print Sizes
 Sharpening
 Working With RAW Files
 

The Gimp Tutorials
 The Gimp Primer
 Saving Your Image
 Adding a Border
 Using Levels
 Using Curves
 The S-Curve
 Correcting White Balance
 Improving Saturation
 The Clone Tool
 Correcting Lens Distortion
 Blending Multiple Images
 Black and White Conversion
 Sepia Conversion
 Reducing Noise
 Cropping for Different Print Sizes
 Sharpening
 Working With RAW Files
 
<< Other Camera Features Part II – Capturing The Scene >>

Extra Equipment


Tripod
A tripod is usually needed when your shutter speed drops below 1/60 or when using longer telephoto lenses. The sturdier the better, with legs that lock and spread wide to give maximum stability. The head should let you move the camera into portrait and landscape positions easily. A reversible center column lets you get down low. Liquid filled bubble sight levels are useful for keeping horizons level. If you're tall consider how high the tripod extends, and for storage and carrying, how much it collapses. A quick release head is handy to remove the camera quickly but if it doesn't have a safety lock it's easy to knock it accidentally.


Cable Release
A cable release plugs into the camera to allow remote triggering of the shutter. Useful to eliminate hand shake on cheaper tripods and to allow you to come out from behind the camera and interact with your subject. Infra red shutter releases are also available for some camera models.

Tip: Cable release extension cord is very expensive. If your camera uses 2.5mm jack plugs, buy 'step up' and 'step down' converters to 3.5mm from any electronic parts store. You can then purchase extension cable for regular stereo equipment instead of the expensive proprietary branded cable. I found 6 meters for a dollar!


Filter Systems
Filter systems typically screw onto the front of the camera and help you capture your image as intended. Some systems are very complex (see
www.cokin.com and www.tiffen.com) while other filters simply screw directly onto the front of your lens.

Polarizer and ND filter
Polarizers are indispensable, and neutral density (ND) filters are useful too. With digital it's possible to add many of the effects filters provide in post processing, however these two will be very useful and help where even post processing can't!


External Flash
External flash is more powerful than on camera flash It's useful for reducing red-eye, caused by the flash bouncing off the back of the eyeball. The further or higher above the camera lens the less likely you will be to get the red reflection. It allows you to bounce the flash off walls and ceilings to give a softer light and less harsh shadows. Be careful when the walls are colored as the flash will pick up color and tint your subject. Multiple external flashes can be linked to provide complex lighting solutions. A diffuser is a good companion to a powerful flash. It's a translucent cover that softens the light from a flash. Gels are colored heat resistant plastic sheets to add color to your flash.


Studio Lighting
Strobes,extra external flash units or hot lights (constantly on bulbs), all have their advantages and disadvantages. You can set up studios on a large scale to photograph anything from groups of people, cars, even aircraft or on a tiny scale for up close 'macro' work. Prices can range from a few dollars for a macro studio made from parts available in any hardware store, to an almost open ended scale. You can get big, bright lighting from a hardware store that will meet the needs of most people on a budget. Make sure you set your white balance correctly for the type of lighting you choose. You may need to set it manually. Consult your camera's manual or look online for details on how to do this. Post what you find on
www.GoingManual.com and you'll be helping others who need the same info.

Reflectors
Reflectors come in handy to fill in shadows and reduce contrast. Collapsible ones are useful when traveling but they can be made from white paper or aluminum foil. My first reflector was 4 bamboo poles taped together with scrunched up and flattened foil (scrunched to avoid hot spots) on one side and paper on the other. Often paper and material may look white but might not be pure so watch out for subtle colors tinting your subject.

Tip: Using colored reflectors can add warmth (reddish tones) or coolness (blueish tones) to your subject.





<< Other Camera Features



Part II – Capturing The Scene >>



All Content on this site © 2007 Simon Andrews
Please ask for permission before reproducing GoingManual.com content in any way