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Photography Tutorial

Introduction

Part I – Gear

The Camera
 -  Focus
 -  Resolution
 -  MegaPixels Vs Print Size
 -  Sharpening

Semi auto settings
 -  Aperture Priority (Av)
 -  Shutter priority (Tv)

Zoom and Focal Length
 -  A Note About Sensor Size

Other Camera Features
 -  Viewfinders
 -  Lens Hood
 -  LCD screen
 -  White Balance

Extra Equipment
 -  Tripod
 -  Cable Release
 -  Filter systems
 -  Polarizer and ND filter
 -  External Flash
 -  Studio Lighting
 -  Reflectors

Part II – Capturing The Scene

Your First Manual Photo
 -  It's All About Exposure
 -  The Light Meter
 -  Exposure Explained
 -  Controlling Exposure

Creative Effects
 -  Aperture and Depth Of Field
 -  DOF Preview
 -  Shutter speed

Putting it all Together
 -  ISO
 -  Ap. & Shutter Relationship
 -  Stop for a minute
 -  So What?
 -  The Bulb Setting

Metering the Scene
 -  18% of Everything

Metering modes
 -  Matrix
 -  Average
 -  Center weighted
 -  Spot or semi-spot

Taking Meter Readings
 -  Expose for your subject
 -  Sunsets and sunrises
 -  Reflecting sun
 -  Night Exposures
 -  Moon
 -  Green Foliage
 -  Bright or White Scenes
 -  Dark or Black Scenes

Understanding Your Histogram
 -  Flash Metering

Composition

Lead in The Viewer Eye
 -  Point of Focus
 -  Fill the frame
 -  The Rule of Thirds
 -  Moving Subjects
 -  Print and frame Sizes

Different Styles

Learn by doing
 -  Giving and Getting Critique
 -  Portraits
 -  Groups
 -  Children
 -  Shooting Outdoors
 -  Silhouettes
 -  Macro
 -  Products
 -  Landscapes
 -  Sports and Action
 -  Panning
 -  Rear Sync Flash
 -  Abstract
 -  Long Exposures
 -  Black and White

A few Other Useful Things
 -  Blown Out Skies
 -  Neutral Density Filters
 -  Polarizing Filters
 -  Electronic noise

You're Half Way There!

Part III The Digital darkroom

 -  Computer hardware
 -  Card Reader
 -  Printers
 -  Mouse

Post Processing
 -  The Ethics of Altering
 -  Choosing Your Program

 -  Tutorials
 

Photoshop Tutorials
 Photoshop Primer
 Saving Your Image
 Adding a Border
 Using Levels
 Using Curves
 The S-Curve
 Correcting White Balance
 Improving Saturation
 The Clone Tool
 Correcting Lens Distortion
 Blending Multiple Images
 Black and White Conversion
 Sepia Conversion
 Reducing Noise
 Cropping for Different Print Sizes
 Sharpening
 Working With RAW Files
 

The Gimp Tutorials
 The Gimp Primer
 Saving Your Image
 Adding a Border
 Using Levels
 Using Curves
 The S-Curve
 Correcting White Balance
 Improving Saturation
 The Clone Tool
 Correcting Lens Distortion
 Blending Multiple Images
 Black and White Conversion
 Sepia Conversion
 Reducing Noise
 Cropping for Different Print Sizes
 Sharpening
 Working With RAW Files
 
<< Part II – Capturing The Scene Creative Effects >>

It's All About Exposure


The Light Meter
The light meter is the needle either on the screen on the back or it's visible in the viewfinder when in manual mode. It tells you how much light is coming through the lens and is a crucial tool in going manual. This type of meter is abbreviated to TTL (Through The Lens). Usually it sits in the middle when the camera is set for a correct exposure. Half press the shutter release to activate it. Different cameras have different ways of representing how much light is in the scene. Consult your cameras manual to see how your does it.


ExposureExplained
A modern camera has a film or digital sensor to record the light but you or the camera's brain have to decide how much light reaches the sensor. Too much light and the picture will be too bright, loosing detail. This is called overexposure. Too little light and the picture comes out too dark or dull. This is called underexposure. We are seeking the correct exposure, where just the right amount of light reaches the sensor. Because this book is geared to digital photography, I'll talk about sensors but it's just a relevant to film users too.

Tip: A camera's light meter is easily fooled. When we understand how to go manual, our brain can compensate where a camera's brain cannot.


Controlling Exposure
So how do we control how much light reaches the sensor? Three things work together:

Aperture Shutter Speed & ISO
Aperture is a mechanical iris that can be adjusted from a large (wide) opening to a pinhole size. The smaller the hole, the less light can reach the sensor. The size is variable because it allows us to create different effects. Intentionally blurry foregrounds or backgrounds are achieved because of the aperture. More about it's creative uses later - for now remember big hole equals more light reaching the sensor, small hole equals less light.

Shutter speed is a bit more simple. The longer the shutter is open the more light reaches the sensor. A fast shutter speed will freeze action while a slow shutter speed is useful for low light and will also produce blur, which can be desirable sometimes. An example would be giving water a milky appearance on waterfalls. We use different shutter speeds depending on how fast the action is in our chosen scene and what creative effect we want to produce. The many creative uses will be discussed later.

ISO stands for International Standardization Organization and is accompanied with a number 50, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 etc. Note the number doubles each time. The number represents how sensitive to light the film or sensor is. Each number increase represents a doubling of that sensitivity. The higher the number the more sensitive to light.

Put these three things together and you can control how much light reaches the sensor. Imagine you're taking a picture of the scene outside your window. A fast shutter speed and wide aperture can let the same amount of light through as a small aperture and a slow shutter speed.

Fast shutter speed=less light
Wide aperture = More light
Result = correct exposure


Slow shutter = more light
Small aperture = less light
Result = correct exposure


Of course the actual settings you use will depend on how much light is in the scene you intend to capture.



<< Part II – Capturing The Scene



Creative Effects >>



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